Tailor s measure



UNITED, STATES PATENT OFFICE.

AMOS STOCKER, OF` ROME, NEW YORK.

TAILoRs MEASURE.

Specification of Letters Patent No. 15,824, dated September 30, 1856.

To all whom t may concern.'

Be it known that I, AMos STOCKER, of Rome, in the county of Oneida. and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Tailors Measures; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the construction and operation of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making a part of this specification, in which- Figure 1 is a perspective view.

I take a straight piece of morocco in length about eighteen inches and about seven inches in width, each end being square, and from the center of one edge to the ends of the opposite edge I cut in a form` less than a half circle, as represented from 2, 4, 5 to 3. I then take a piece of woolen cloth of the same shape for lining,` and a piece of fine Manila wrapping paper of the same shape for interlining, and on the wrong side of the morocco I spread a coat of common flour paste, on which I press the paper until dry; and then on t-he paper I spread a thin coat of glue while warm with a common brush, and on this glue I press the cloth till dry. I then make eighteen divisions, commencing about three fourths of an inch from either end of t-he straight edge of the instrument, the divisions-.being about an inch apart each being equal, those again being divided into halves and quarters, and under those eighteen equal divisions and about one half inch from the edge I punch round holes of a suitable size, and I insert in those holes commo-n metallic eyelets as represented. IV also stamp the different letters of the alphabet under and near each eyelet, commencing with A and ending wit-h R, as represented, and at each end of the instrument on the lining and nearly under A and R, I attach small hooks (made from large sized pins by bending the point to the shape required) by sewing them fast to the line, so that the points of the hooks point to the center of the instrument. I then take a piece of india rubber aboutone inch long and half as wide, nearly ith of an inch thick at one end, and in which I make a small hole as represented. The other end I make `nearly an ath of an inch thick. This end is sewed onto the circular edge near A and R, so that the thickest end will point from the hooks; the object of the rubber strips being to fasten on the hooks when drafting to prevent them from catching into the cloth; but when about fastening on the instrument to take a measure I disengage the rubber strips from the hooks and they spring back from the hooks as represented O and Y. On the lower or circular edge of the instrument I stamp eight letters of the alphabet th of an inch from the edge, and about two inches apart in alphabetical order, commencing with S and ending with Z, V and IV being equally distant from the circular edge,.and between each letter I insert eyelet holes and eyelets, as before described. The object in having such a great number of eyelet holes in the `instrument is to have them as near to every part o-f the body that 1t 1s n-ecessary to meas-` ure from, .as possible, the letters being their name only. Lining the instrument with cloth is to make it as light as possible, and also to make it adhere to the body, and prevent its slipping. Interlining the instrument with Manila wrapping paper is to make it as thin as possible, and to prevent,

its stretching.

The advantages of this instrument over others is the ease and Afacility of placing it on either side of the body of persons of all sizes, with nothing on the straight edge to dist-urb the natural position of the shoulder joint, being able to slide it back or forward not being coniined to any particular point to measure from. The straight edge is placed on a line with the bottom of the arm, as seen'in Fig. S, and extending to the center of the breast, or beyond. This serves as a base line from (being where the greatest changeof the breast takes place) whence to start in taking the measures.` The eyelet holes are used as point-s to start from, in taking the desired measures, as will be seen in Fig. 8, where the letters near the straight edge B, E and A show measures taken on une breast to the letters F and G.

The advantages yof my straight edge over instruments running up in front of the arm are as follows: that I am enabled to take the measures accurately by means of the tape line, it adapting itself to the shape of the breast in taking the measures from B, E, and A to F and G, which cannot be done accurately by any known instrument running up in front of the arm. The lower edge of the instrument is less than a half circle, as seen in Fig. l, for the purpose of adapting it to different sized persons. The

eyelets and letters on the straight edge from 2, to 3, and on the curved edge from 4L, to 5, Fig. 1, are so arranged that I can measure from any given point of the body necessary wit-hout regard to the size of the person measured, and without any` mechanical change of the instrument to obtain the given shape of the body, as `seen in Fig. 8 at letters B, WV, and U to star, as seen in red dotted lines, and from W to X and from l/V to Y in Fig. 9.

The instrument represented at Fig. 12 is a common, tailors measure, with inches and fractions of inches marked thereon, and to an end ofwhich a small hook, as represented, is attached D.

Directions for tts/ng t/ze instrument. See Fig. 9.First mark at S, near socket bone as heightof gorge, then at F, on collar seam out as far as the side of the neck, then at Gr, then at P, as center of back scye, and to M, as the most prominent part of blade bone, and to Y, as hollow of waist, and then I note all of those measures in the book used for such purpose, then apply t-he instrument Fig. l, as represented, on Fig. 8, but if the person is so small that the widest part of the instrument strikes the hip, in that case slide it forward until the instrument is narrow enough to avoid the hip, then attach the instrument to the body by means of the hooks; then measure with instrument Fig. 12 from the eyelet hole nearest the hip, as at IV, to top of hip at X, then to Y, then from O or end of instrument near M to Y, then from end of instrument to M, then from eyelet hole nearest to front of arm back, Figs. 10 and 11, I cut the back, Fig. 11, to agree with the measures taken and distances to points as measured. I then take the instrument, Fig. 1, and lay it on the cloth, or paper, as seen in Fig. 13; apply the measure from W to X, from IV to :t (star) at Y, then from O to t (star) at Y, or from the end vof the instrument to back of arm to i (star) at Y and where the two measures meet make a then apply the back, as represented, at Y, and swing it in until it agrees with the measure at M, form side seam and back scye, as represented; apply back, as seen at K, then measure up to center of back scye on the back at D, then apply the measures taken from A and E, and where they intersectis the place for the upper shoulder point, then apply the back at F, and swing it on the pivot F, until the centerof the back scye agrees with the measure taken from E, by point G, deducting the distance from O, to D, if the measure is too short from B to F, cut out a V as represented to make it agree, and then form fore part as represented, and you are ready to cut.

I do not claim such an instrument as the one patented to B. J. Lewis, Nov. 19th, 1833, nor do I claim the instrument as described by Saml. T. Taylor, rejected Novr. 18th, 1840, nor do I claim the instrument referred to as patented to IV. J. Wells, April 20th, 1852, nor do I claim as new the use of a tape measure as seen in Fig. 12, nor do I claim the use of the hooks as new. But

What I do claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent is The instrument as seen in Fig. 1, with the arrangement of its eyelet holes, eyelets, and letters, substantially as described, and for the purpose set forth in the specification.

AMOS STOCKER.

Vitnesses:

JNO. I). VAN VLECK, JOI-IN CUNNINGHAM, H. S. SHELLEY. 

